Shimoda is normally a sleepy fishing community famous for onsen and seafood, but it celebrates the Kurofune Matsuri with parades, flourish and kimono every May.

Sheila Cliffe, for JAPAN Forward

The 83^rd Kurofune Matsuri, or Black Ships Festival, was held in the small city of Shimoda on the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture on May 21 and 22. This festival commemorates the entrance of Commodore Perry and his black ships from the United States, whose arrival opened up Japan for trading purposes in the mid 1800s.

It is reasonable to suppose that the residents of Shimoda were not so excited about such a relationship at that point in time. However, as years have gone by, ideas change. And for the best part of 100 years the citizens have chosen to celebrate their special place in Japan’s international relations with a festival.

This has always taken place on the third weekend in May. However, it was cancelled for two years because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

The Japanese year is not only marked by its changes in seasons, but also the festivals, dancing and other events held in streets to celebrate historical events associated with the place. A Japanese summer with no festivals hardly qualifies as a summer. And so it was with delight that I heard the Black Ships Festival would once again take place in 2022.

It has been one of my favourite events of the year, and the only place I have known where Star Wars characters can randomly meet Edo period officials in the street and share a beer or some yakitori.

Kimono Biyori, a kimono group led by Ryuji and Hisae Nishiwaki, has been going to Shimoda to do a kimono fashion show for over ten years. I have gone there most years as well, taking students, my children and friends, so they could participate.

The site for the fashion show is outside Ryosenji Temple, which is where the Treaty of Amity and Commerce was signed between the Japanese authorities and the American Government Officials in 1858. It is a place of historical significance and home of the Black Ships Museum.

Surrounded by forested mountains and American jasmine plants, the location is beautiful, and only bad weather can halt the proceedings. Group members can enjoy the opportunity to wear their colorful and most creative outfits, be they antique or modern, and participants of all ages can enjoy taking part.

This year I wore an antique turquoise formal summer kimono, paired with an obi showing tropical fish to add a touch of sea themed interest to the outfit.

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